Category Archives: Suzy Mae

Travel Local: Chinatown, NYC

Aug 8, 2013

Travel Local
Living out of a backpack, aka Full Backpack style, is meant to reduce complications and open up more possibilities.  Travel Local guidelines release tourists from the wheelied, neck-pillowed, map-fumbling stereotypes they may be, and allows for city exploration as a visiting neighbor.  This means sticking to one neighborhood for the majority of your stay.  Borrowing a bike and exploring on foot.  Visiting the same juice bar each morning.  Learning which way’s north.

Secure Homebase

Secure homebase

I’m a big fan of Hotel Tonight, the app that allows you to make reduced-cost purchases after noon from underbooked hotels, but leading up to my trip, a few test-runs showed that apparently more and more people are becoming fans, too, and reducing availability.  Selections had decreased and prices were higher. My “Travel Local” idea needed a home base, so I did some Yelping and found a Lower East Side HoJo in Chinatown. I picked Chinatown for its proximity to the Williamsburg bridge, and the “stay downtown, darling” advice of Gala Darling in her Love and Sequins chapter #11,
“It’s up to you, New York, New York.” Luckily, too.  The night I arrived in NYC, I checked Hotel Tonight in my taxi to Chinatown, and found that a sports game had reduced availability and upped prices.  Homebase secured!  I win this round.

Daily Deli

Daily deli

So Chinatown was my new home, a place where unloading of edibles seems to happen each morning, and the summer trash is particularly offensive, reeking of chicken asshole and putrid fish guts. My first night, I discovered a 24 hour deli right on my block that made juices and smoothies.  24 hours a day.  For five dollars.  This type of thing does not exist in the twelve-dollar smoothieland that is Los Angeles.  The Highline Deli became my daily stop, where the counter guys and I made friends:  they made custom smoothies, pointed me to subway stops, and one night, as I experienced 3am drunk starvation shame, whipped up the most epic veggie and chicken wrap I’ve ever eaten.  Imagine a drunk food better than tacos.  This was it.  (Tacos are my heart, so that’s saying something.)

Friendly Favors

Request friendly favors

Asking for something is the only way to receive it.  I’m independent to a fault.  But a quote from Neal Donald Walsch inspired me on this trip:  “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.”  I asked friends for help, and I got it:  a borrowed bike, helmet, introductions to new friends,  IRL meetups with Internet friends, recommendations and invitations.  I even got touristy with the HoJo staff, who were massively helpful in spreading out a giant subway map and giving me tips to navigate the city.  A spread-out map is my biggest fear—I’m a shitty navigator and I HATE getting lost/ asking for directions—so this was pushing my comfort zone to the hilt.

Bike Bike Bike

Bike, bike, bike

I love biking. Especially on vacation. Cycling through the city is the perfect pace.  You acknowledge your surroundings with every layer of attention:  acutely aware (what are the drivers like out here?), contemplative (the light off that building is beautiful), logistical (OK, right in two blocks, then a left at the fork).  Interaction is easier on a bike than on the street, and you can jump off to redirect your trajectory at any moment, if a sexy person, awesome shop, or enticing bar crosses your path.  One thing I wouldn’t recommend:  Citibikes.   They’re unwieldy, top-heavy, confusing, and you have to check them in every hour. Not worth it.  Borrow a freaking bike from a local, or rent a real city road bike.

Go Public

Go public

I am terrible with directions.  And I’ve tried every psychological/ brain-training trick possible to change this, but invariably, I blank out when hearing directions, forget them immediately, and have no sense of north.  This is my tragedy, and it makes public transportation most epic—the wrong bus, once entered, can send me down a rabbit hole of confusion and frustration.  Pushing past my comfort zone, I MAKE MYSELF TAKE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION.  Even in Japan, where my grasp on the language was basic at best, my taxi-loving friend was forced to battle the complex subway fare system, tunnels, and connections with me. Conquering public
transportation in JAPAN (drunk, at that) is like winning American Ninja
Warrior
.  So in NYC, I took subways and buses when off-bike.  Sure, most people there do, but that’s the Travel Local experience.

Neighborhood Watch

Neighborhood watch

Another reason biking is the best—I covered more ground than simply walking, and if (when) I got confused, circling a block on wheels makes you look like someone who’s into exercising, as opposed to someone who’s hopelessly lost and looking to be mugged.  At night, I’d cruise around the Lower East Side, making notes on cool restaurants to visit next day, stopping into bars, striking up conversations, and then riding home to HoJo.  You see the same people nightly, they open up.  Familiarity drives affinity.  It’s why we see the same commercial for yogurt 20 times during Passions, and why your favorite bar is the one where you get free drinks.  By my last NYC night, I was getting free drinks.

Drop In FTW

Drop-in FTW

Being in Chinatown, I knew there would be some killer cheap massage action.  Right on my block was Rich Feet… Rich Feet, where for $30 and an hour, you get a foot and leg massage that rubs the New York pavement’s abuse into submission.  Down Allen Street was Marie Nails, where I practiced Japanese with a sweet manicurist who turned my nails into bejeweled works of art.  Every lunch, I found a new place, dropped in, headed for the bar, and talked shit to the bartender, bar neighbor, or both.  Bartender Andrew, above, and his superfab servers were my favorites, getting me drunk and giving me info on their Uptown neighborhood, post Museum of Sex visit.

Be A Neighbor

Be a neighbor

Part of traveling local is meeting the locals. My favorite conversations happened with people I ran into purely by coincidence.  One person I met randomly knew a person I met the next week in Chicago.  One teenager I struck up a conversation with at Pitchfork Chicago was the cousin of an ad-world friend I’ve hung with in Los Angeles.  Randomly.  How amazing is that?  It’s a habit I plan to continue in my real Los Angeles life. Just this week, at a comedy show, solo, I struck up a conversation with the man next to me, who happened to work in my industry, and big shocker:  we have multiple friends in common.  Break your monotony.  Open your eyes.  Look at the person next to you.  Say hello. The two of you have more in common than any other people on earth at this moment. Traveling local makes the world a smaller community, and a better place.

Live, learn, and say hello,

suzymae

Full Backpack: traveling light

Jul 7, 2013

Full Backpack10 copy

Suitcases are for suits.  For the past few weeks, I went Full Backpack.  After scoring a handsome military style bag from my favorite Hollywood surplus store, I promised myself that everything for my East Coast/ Midwest tour needed to fit in the bag.  Everything.

Backpack Promises: Travel Light!

The Full Backpack promise was paired with a motto by artist Alexander Barrett: “You Do You, Dude.”  A few Full Backpack rules:

do it in the sink

Do it in the sink.  Rayons & light fabrics are easily washed in a sink and
hung to dry overnight. Pack sports bras only.  They’re built to soak up sweat while running around. Years ago, an old roomie taught me the best timesaver ever:  jump in the shower with your sports bra on, wash with Dr Bronner’s, wring out and hang up before you dry off.  Perfection.

no books allowed

No books allowed.  My biggest packing fail?  Bringing books I’ll never read. Full Backpack only allows for articles of creation, not consumption: laptop, notebook, pencil case.  (One fresh Vanity Fair is allowed for plane rides.) With apps like Instapaper and Kindle, who even needs paper?  I always come home with new reads anyway.

carry a charge

Carry a charge.  Instead of hauling around two devices, i.e. smartphone plus
tablet backup, a mobile charger will keep your phone juiced.  I used mine twice, then promptly dropped it down a New York sewer grate.  I’m now at the mercy of bartenders and random outlets until I find a new one.  That’s Full Backpack for you.  Figure it out on the fly.

pack black

Pack black.  Multiple black shirts go with everything:  wild banana shorts, light nylon skirts, denim cutoffs, shredded leggings. A pair of leopard flats and oxblood Madewell riding boots are the perfect go-to travel shoes.  Heels are for masochists.

double bag

Double bag.  Clearly, I’m not hauling a backpack everywhere, college-expat-in-Europe-style.  A tote and a classic airline travel bag fit in the backpack, for daily use and hauling home a stockpile of souvenirs and presents.

teeny weeny toiletries

Teeny weeny toiletries.  In Japan (my Japanese travel tips at the link!), I bought the most perfect toiletry travel bag from Uniqlo.  It somehow fits every tiny shampoo, little lotion, mini face wash, teeny hairspray, etc, I could possibly use in the most compact, efficient space.  Hoard little toiletries for Full Backpack life, and look for miniaturized tools, like an itsy-bitsy hair straightener.

don't check your backpack

No checking backpacks.  Not only does Full Backpack allow you to skip past bag checks, it’ll even fit under an airplane seat when the overhead luggage
carriers are full.

do more with less

Do more with less.  No excessive makeup or wardrobe is needed.  Anyone you meet on a Full Backpack trip should not care that your hair is fried and you’re in eyeliner instead of full face glamour.  And if those people care, why are you talking to them?  Leave them alone.

They suck, and they are not a part of the Full Backpack experience:  You do you, dude.  You do you.

xo

suzymae

Hollywood the strange

Jul 7, 2013

hollywood-the-strange

Somebody once asked me if moving to  Hollywood, the most branded neighborhood in the world was intentional.  Hadn’t crossed my mind.  But it does have significance.
Bike-little armenia-busted house-hollywood

My childhood was spent in a globally branded city– Las Vegas.  The Entertainment Capital of the World.   Sin City.  What happens there… whatever, you know the rest.   The vibes of its brand permeated the city’s atmosphere.  Gambling, hookers, easy money, hustling.  A predatory place for a young girl to grow up, and a desperate lifestyle of drinking and lost life savings for lots of locals.  In the weeks before I left town, I spent hours driving around Las Vegas wondering:  does this city have a soul?

Abc-chinese-american-mexican-fried chicken-wtf

Living in Hollywood is another experience of observation.  While “Hollywood” is shorthand for the industry that supports most of this city, the actual neighborhood is a mix of cultures and commerce.  I see dazed tourists shuffle down Hollywood Boulevard, grimacing at the laid-out street folk openly smoking weed and testifying about Jesus via sidewalk chalk.   The youngest girl in a chubby family, wearing a glitter purse, pink sweats, and child high heels openly grimaces at a bus stop bum, but doesn’t notice him laughing at her entire family as they pass.

weird mural-pink elephant-kids kare- hollywood- wtf

I see strollers after strollers, young mothers enlisting the oldest to push shopping carts full of babies across Santa Monica, from grocer to fruit stand and then back home to a midcentury apartment building, with thirty-plus un-airconditioned units and two palm trees in front.  Odd murals dot the street– off-brand Homer Simpson, barely recognizable Ralph Lauren Polo cologne, anorexic Michelin Man, painted in unrealistic perspectives.

dope-barbershop-closing sale-shoebiz-thats showbiz

At Hollywood and Vine, aspiring teenage record producers perch on planters in their telltale orange lanyards, scholars at the Los Angeles School of Recording Arts.  Smoking weed with their Beats by Dre headphones blasting from the neck, each and every one of them is going to make it.  They’ll all be working with Jay-Z, eventually.

sofa u love- mattress-little armenia- hollywood-art

In Little Armenia, where couches and mattresses and broken big screen TVs accumulate endlessly on street corners, old men line the sidewalks, congregating in small groups.  Smoking, drinking Turkish coffee.  Coughing and speaking loudly in dark, hoarse Armenian.  Watching the neigborhood, never smiling, never waving, only observing the evolution of their landscape, and the endless parade of double-parked Land Rovers.

chaps-hollywood-no parking-palm tree

Jumbo’s Clown Room lures the hipsters to Thai Town at night.  Smog Cutter’s karaoke down Virgil is the next step, a catch-all for the kicked-out drunks who drive home blasted anyway.  The Spare Room.  The Virgil.  Good Luck Bar.  They blur at night.  Slow down as you pass the Scientology building to see vacant-eyed Orgs robotically gardening in the dark.

black cat-scientology-answers to life-hollywood

The universally accepted Hollywood brand– convertibles! Movie stars!  Glamour!  Youth!  None of this truly applies to the East Hollywood neighborhood I know.  But I love my neighborhood, filled with ridiculous murals, wild characters, independent businesses and a flat landscape, perfect for biking.  If I really wanted glamour, I’d move to WeHo.

xo,

suzymae